Footwear assembly

ABSTRACT

Disclosed is a footwear assembly ( 10 ) for forming at least part of an upper assembly of footwear, the footwear assembly defining an instep opening ( 8 ) and comprising: a water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer ( 12 ) having a first elasticity, and a collar layer ( 14 ) attached to the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer ( 12 ) such as to define at least part of the instep opening ( 8 ), the collar layer ( 14 ) having a second elasticity.

The present invention relates to a footwear assembly for forming atleast part of an upper assembly of footwear, as well as to an upperassembly of footwear comprising such footwear assembly. Moreover, thepresent invention relates to footwear comprising such footwear assembly.

Protective clothing articles are used for wear in outdoor conditionslike wet conditions (such as rain, snow, wind, cold etc.), in outdooractivities (such as skiing, biking, hiking, etc.) and should protect thewearer by preventing leakage of water or other fluids into the articlewhile keeping the wearer comfortable by allowing perspiration toevaporate from the wearer to the outside of the article. In addition,such an article should maintain the functional attributes of protectionand comfort during ordinary use.

Where flexibility of movement is essential, elastic or stretchablefabric laminates with the above functional attributes are needed alongwith soft and drape able feeling. A variety of attempts have been madeto improve elastic, breathable laminated and composite fabrics.Although, improvements have been made, many of these fabrics obtainvarying degrees of waterproofness, breathability, elasticity,elastic-recovery, and comfort.

Thus, there remains a need for a composite that achieves a high degreeof waterproofness, breathability, elasticity, elastic-recovery, andcomfort by in use within a variety of applications, including footwear.

In footwear, a particular requirement exists in that footwear should beeasy to don (to put on), as well as it should be as easy to doff (or totake off) the footwear. Therefore, footwear should be designed such asto only loosely fit to the foot of a person when donning or doffing thefootwear. Nevertheless, it is required that footwear fits the foot of aperson after it has been donned and is subject to extended load duringuse. Usually, this contradicting requirement is solved by use ofdedicated closing systems, particularly lacing systems. Velcro's and/orzippers are frequently used as well, either in addition or alternativeto laces. There is particularly a problem with respect to children'sfootwear, since younger children typically are not able to handle morecomplicated procedures required to don or doff footwear, like putting onlaces. Zippers or Velcro's are usually used in children's footwear as analternative to laces, since they are easier to handle. However, none ofthese systems is really satisfying. While there exist footwear designswithout any laces or zippers (e.g. Chelsea boots), donning or doffing ofsuch footwear usually demands great skills and requires application ofsubstantial forces. Thus, such footwear designs are far from practicalsolutions to be handled by children.

Therefore, there exists a demand for footwear which is flexible enoughso it can be donned and/or doffed without the need to manipulate anylaces or comparable systems, but still is flexible enough to fit thefoot of a wearer during use.

Embodiments disclosed herein provide for a footwear assembly configuredto form at least part of an upper assembly of footwear. The footwearassembly defines an instep opening and comprises a water vapor permeableand waterproof functional layer having a first elasticity, and a collarlayer attached to the water vapor permeable and waterproof functionallayer such as to define at least part of the instep opening, the collarlayer having a second elasticity.

As used herein the instep opening is considered to be an opening offootwear configured for insertion of a foot when putting on (or donning)the footwear and/or when taking off (doffing) the footwear. The wearer'sfoot has to be inserted through the instep opening when donning thefootwear, and the wearer's foot has to be taken out again through thesame instep opening when doffing the footwear. This requires the portionof the footwear assembly defining the instep opening to be able toadjust the instep opening size. A loose fit where the instep openingdoes not hinder the movement of the wearer's foot through the instepopening is required for donning or doffing the footwear. A close fitaround the ankle of the foot is desirable during use of the footwearwhen the footwear is subject to extended load and thus should closelyfit the wearer's foot in the region around the ankle in order toguarantee stable support of the foot, comfort, and particularly avoidblisters. While conventionally the size of the instep opening isdesigned such as to be adjustable by use of lacing systems, zippers,Velcros, or the like, the present invention suggests a differentapproach based on providing elasticity or stretch ability of thefootwear assembly in the portions comprising the instep opening and theregions adjacent to these portions, particularly the regions adjacentthe ankle of the foot when the footwear is in use. As suggested herein,the footwear assembly is provided with suitable elasticity orstretchability in these portions, such as to allow the instep opening toadjust itself according to the different requirements when donningand/or doffing the footwear, on the one hand, and during use when thefootwear assembly should fit to the wearer's foot in the regionsadjacent the ankle of the foot, on the other hand. The suggestedconfiguration particularly allows to achieve the desired flexibility ofthe footwear assembly without having to apply large forces for donningand/or doffing, even though water vapor permeable and waterprooffunctional layers are used, which are known to have only limitedelasticity properties or stretchability. Using the structure suggestedherein it is possible to achieve sufficiently good elasticity in theportions of the footwear assembly comprising the instep opening andbeing adjacent to the ankle of the foot in use, even when functionallayer laminates with only limited elasticity properties orstretchability are used.

This allows to don or doff the footwear without the need to apply greatskills and large forces, and thus footwear designed according to theinvention may be donned and doffed even by children without any aid.

Throughout this disclosure the terms elasticity and stretchability areused equivalently referring to the ability of a material to elongate inresponse to a tensile force applied to it and to recover at least partlytowards the original shape once the tensile force is no longer applied.

Footwear designed as suggested herein may still be provided with lacesand/or zippers. However, it is no longer necessary to manipulate thesefor donning and/or doffing the footwear. Rather, laces and/or zippersmay have mere aesthetic function.

Elasticity or stretchability of the functional layer as well as of thecollar layer, and any other layer mentioned herein, may be measuredaccording to DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2005), method A. The test may carriedout as set out therein, while using test samples of the followingconfiguration: Test sample width=25 mm, test sample testing length=50 mm(testing length refers to the free length of the test sample in betweenthe clamps on its opposite side), whole length of test sample=100-150mm. The test sample is subject to 5 consecutive test cycles. In eachtest cycle, the test sample is subject to a constant tensioning force of7.5 N, and the maximum elongation E of the test sample is measured.Otherwise, test conditions are as set out in DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015),method A. A test sample is considered elastic in case it achieves amaximum elongation E compared to its original length of at least 6 mm atthe end of the 5th test cycle. More preferably, a test sample mayachieve a maximum elongation E of at least 8 mm, at the end of the 5thtest cycle. Even more preferably, a test sample may achieve a maximumelongation E of at least 10 mm, at the end of the 5th test cycle. In allcases, the test sample is required to have at least 80% recovery,measured 30 min after release of the tensioning force. Recovery refersto the remaining elongation C according to DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015).When relaxing the tensioning force after the end of the 5th test cycle,the test sample recovers to a remaining elongation C according DIN EN14704-1 (July 2015). A test sample has at least 80% recovery in case theremaining elongation C is at most equal to 20% of the maximum elongationmeasured according to DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015). For example, in casethe maximum elongation E of a test sample at 7.5 N is 6 mm, a remainingelongation C≦1.2 mm is required. In particular embodiments, a recoveryof even 90% or more after 30 min may be achieved.

The water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer is required tohave a first elasticity in at least one direction, e.g. in machinedirection. In such case, it will be advisable to orient the functionallayer such that the elasticity direction is in the direction where mostelongation is needed when donning or doffing the footwear. In case thewater vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer has a firstelasticity in more than one direction (e.g. in machine direction and intransverse direction), it may be convenient to define the firstelasticity with respect to the main direction of elasticity, i.e. to thedirection in which the elasticity of the water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer is largest, but this is not always required.In particular embodiments, the water vapor permeable and waterprooffunctional layer may have the configuration of a quarter section of anupper assembly. In further embodiments, the water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer may have the configuration of a whole upperlining of an upper assembly or a bootie, except the portions around theinstep opening formed by the collar layer. In even further embodiments,the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer may alsoinclude a shaft bottom layer, or the whole bootie, except the portionsaround the instep opening formed by the collar layer. In particularembodiments, the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layermay further have the configuration of a tongue portion.

Also, the collar layer is required to have a second elasticity in atleast one direction, e.g. in machine direction. Again, it will beadvisable to orient the collar layer such that its elasticity directionis in the direction where most elongation is needed when donning ordoffing the footwear. Frequently, the collar layer may have a secondelasticity in more than one direction (e.g. elasticity in machinedirection and in transverse direction, or elasticity in weft directionand in warp direction of the knit or woven fabric from which the collarlayer is made). In these cases it may be convenient to define the secondelasticity with respect to the main direction of elasticity, i.e. to thedirection in which the elasticity of the collar layer is largest.

It may also be convenient to define the first elasticity and the secondelasticity in the same direction. For example, it may be convenient todefine the first elasticity and the second elasticity both in thedirection where the most elongation is needed when donning or duffing afootwear.

The collar layer does not have to be waterproof. Neither does the collarlayer have to be water vapor permeable. In most cases, the collar layermay be water vapor permeable, but not waterproof. This allows to makethe collar layer from a highly elastic material, and particularly from amaterial having elasticity in more than one direction, e.g. in weft andwarp direction. Combination of the water vapor permeable and waterprooffunctional layer laminate with the collar layer allows to use a watervapor permeable and waterproof functional layer laminate of only limitedelasticity, while still allowing sufficient donning/doffing capability,particularly donning/doffing without manipulating any laces, zippers, orthe like, and without requiring much forces and skills, due to theelastic properties of the collar layer. Most elastic functional layerlaminates have elastic properties in only one direction. This limitedelasticity of the waterproof and water vapor permeable functional layermay be compensated for by selection of a highly elastic collar layermaterial, particularly a material having elasticity in at least twodirections, and appropriate arrangement of the collar layer around theinstep opening where most stretchability is needed.

The donning and/or doffing characteristics of the footwear assembly willbe determined mostly by the collar layer and the second elasticitythereof. Therefore, usually the second elasticity may be equal to, orlarger, than a predetermined threshold. In embodiments, the secondelasticity may be required to fulfil at least one of the above mentionedthresholds, when measured according to DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015).

Except for cases where a highly elastic water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer is used, the collar layer may have a secondelasticity equal to, or larger, than the first elasticity. As mentionedbefore, when comparing the first elasticity and the second elasticity,it may be convenient to measure the first elasticity and the secondelasticity in the same direction.

To provide sufficient extension of the instep opening when donning ordoffing the footwear, the collar layer may extend along at least 30% ofcircumference of the instep opening, in particular at least 60% ofcircumference of the instep opening; in particular at least ⅔ of thecircumference of the instep opening. With any of these embodiments, thecollar layer does not necessarily have to extend around a contiguoussection of the circumference, but may extend around a number ofcircumference pieces, separated by non-elastic portions comprising awater vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer, or not. In anumber of particular embodiments, the collar layer may extend between30% and 60% of the circumference of the instep opening. In a number ofparticular embodiments, the collar layer may extend between 30% and ⅔ ofthe circumference of the instep opening (upper boundary not included),in particular between 60% and ⅔ of the circumference of the instepopening (upper boundary not included). In a number of particularembodiments, the collar layer may extend along 90% of the circumferenceof the instep opening, in some embodiments even along the fullcircumference of the instep opening.

In embodiments the collar layer may be attached to the water vaporpermeable and waterproof functional layer by means of a seam. In ordernot to compromise elasticity of the collar layer and/or the water vaporpermeable and waterproof functional layer, the seam may have theconfiguration of an elastic seam. For example, the elastic seam may beformed by a thread having a third elasticity. Elastic threads are widelyused in the art for providing elastic seams. For example, threadscomprising, or even made of, Lycra or Elasthan, are frequently used. Asan alternative, or in addition using an elastic thread the elastic seammay be formed by a stitch pattern providing elastic characteristics,like a zig-zag stitch. A zig zag stitch has elastic characteristics byitself such that in this case a thread made of non-elastic material maybe used. In most embodiments, the elastic seam may extend along anyportion where the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layerand the collar layer abut each other. At least, the elastic seam mayextend along at least 30% of the circumference of the instep opening. Ina number of particular embodiments, the elastic seam may extend along60%, along ⅔, or even along 90% of the circumference of the instepopening, in some embodiments even along the full circumference of theinstep opening.

As mentioned before, usually it will make sense if the elastic seam willextend at least along any contact region where the water vapor permeablefunctional layer and the collar layer are attached to each other aroundthe instep opening. The elastic seam may extend further than thesecontact regions, but this is not necessary. The elastic seam may extendalong only a part or parts of the contact region, in case the collarlayer extends along more than ⅔ of the circumference of the instepopening. However, the elastic seam should extend along at least ⅔ of thecircumference of the instep opening in such embodiments. In case thecollar layer extends along at least 60% of the circumference of theinstep opening, it is possible that the elastic seam may extend alongonly a part or parts of the contact region. However, the elastic seamshould extend along at least 30% of the circumference of the instepopening in such embodiments. Even in case the collar layer extends alongat least 30% of the circumference of the instep opening, it is possiblethat the elastic seam may extend along only a part or parts of thecontact region. However, the elastic seam should extend along at least30% of the circumference of the instep opening in such embodiments.

As mentioned above, normally it will be convenient to measure the firstelasticity and the second elasticity in the same direction. Typically,the direction in which the first elasticity and the second elasticityare measured will correspond to the direction where most elongation isrequired when donning of doffing the footwear. For most footweardesigns, the direction where most elongation is required for donning ordoffing the footwear is roughly in the horizontal direction, between theheel and the toe, and thus the first elasticity and the secondelasticity may be measured in a direction parallel to the horizontaldirection. The horizontal direction usually extends parallel to theplane of the tread of the shoe which contacts the ground in use.Parallel as used herein may include an angular range of at most ±25degrees with respect to the horizontal direction, particularly at most±15 degrees with respect to the horizontal direction, particularly atmost ±10 degrees with respect to the horizontal direction.

When the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer and thecollar layer are attached to each other via a seam, it may beconceivable that the first elasticity and the second elasticity aremeasured in direction parallel the seam. Parallel as used herein mayinclude an angular range of at most ±25 degrees with respect to theseam, particularly at most ±15 degrees with respect to the seam,particularly at most ±10 degrees with respect to the seam. The seam maybe oriented parallel to the direction in which most elongation isrequired during donning or doffing.

Particularly, a composite sample piece made of the water vapor permeableand waterproof functional layer and the collar layer attached to eachother by a seam may have a fourth elasticity. The fourth elasticity maybe equal to, or larger, than a predetermined threshold. The fourthelasticity may be required to fulfil at least one of the above mentionedthresholds, when measured according to DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015). Thefourth elasticity may be equal to, or larger, than the first elasticity.The fourth elasticity may even be equal to, or larger than, the secondelasticity. In this way, the seam connecting the water vapor permeableand waterproof functional layer and the collar layer is sufficientlyelastic to avoid compromising the elasticity of the water vaporpermeable and waterproof functional layer or the elasticity of thecollar layer. As mentioned such elasticity can be provided by using anelastic seam configuration, e.g. a zig-zag stitch and/or using anelastic thread.

The fourth elasticity may measured in the same way as the firstelasticity, i.e. according to DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015), method A. Thetest sample for measuring the fourth elasticity has the same overalldimensions: width=25 mm, test length=50 mm, whole length of sample100-150 mm. The first functional layer and the collar layer cover halfof the area of the test sample and are attached to each other along alinear seam extending in the longitudinal direction of the test sample.

Otherwise, the test conditions apply as set out above with respect tothe first elasticity: The test sample is subject to 5 consecutive testcycles. In each test cycle, the test sample is subject to a constanttensioning force of 7.5 N, and the maximum elongation E of the testsample is measured. A test sample is considered elastic in case itachieves a maximum elongation E of at least 6 mm at the end of the 5thtest cycle. More preferably, a test sample may achieve a maximumelongation E of at least 8 mm, at the end of the 5th test cycle. Evenmore preferably, a test sample may achieve a maximum elongation E of atleast 10 mm, at the end of the 5th test cycle. The test sample isrequired to have at least 80% recovery, measured 30 min after thetensioning force has been released. Recovery refers to the remainingelongation C according DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015). In particularembodiments, a recovery of even 90% or more after 30 min may beachieved.

The water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer may have theconfiguration of a laminate made up with a water vapor permeable andwaterproof membrane and at least one textile layer attached to the watervapor permeable and waterproof membrane. Such laminates are principallyknown in the art, e.g. from U.S. Pat. No. 5,804,011 which discloses afabrics being stretchable in two dimensions. The textile layer may havean elastic textile configuration, e.g may be made as a knit having anelastic knit pattern (like a tricot, warp knit, or similar knitpattern). In such case the textile need not necessarily include elasticthreads to provide the desired elastic characteristics. However, in anumber of configurations, it may be helpful if the textile layercomprises elastic filaments, e.g. made from elasthane, to furtherenhance the elasticity of the textile layer.

The water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer may include awater vapor permeable and waterproof membrane. The membrane may beselected from polyurethane, polyester, polyether, polyamide,polyacrylate, copolyether ester and copolyether amides, as well as othersuitable thermoplastic and elastomeric films. In an aspect of theinvention the waterproof, water vapor permeable membrane may be made ofa fluoropolymer, particularly made of microporous expandedpolyterafluorethylene (ePTFE). The microporous polytetrafluoroethylenemembrane is a membrane of expanded polytetrafluoroethylene as taught inU.S. Pat. Nos. 3,953,566 and 4,187,390, to Gore. Such membranes ofexpanded polytetrafluoroethylene are present in commercially availablelaminates from W.L. Gore and Associates, Inc., Elkton, Md., under thetradename GORE-TEX® fabric. The water vapor permeable and waterprooffunctional layer may be composed of a polyurethane coated microporousexpanded polytetrafluoroethylene membrane made substantially accordingto the teachings of U.S. Pat. No. 4,194,041 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,942,214assigned to W.L. Gore and Associates, Inc, in Elkton, Md.

The collar layer may be a water vapor permeable and waterprooffunctional layer as well, but this is not a requirement. Normally, thecollar layer will not be a water vapor permeable and waterprooffunctional layer. Rather, the collar layer may have any desiredconfiguration, given it provides for the required elasticitycharacteristics. In some embodiments, the collar layer may bewaterproof.

In some embodiments, the footwear assembly as described above may havethe configuration of an upper lining. As an upper lining, the footwearassembly is attached to the inner side of an upper material from whichan upper assembly of a footwear article is made. In some embodiments,the upper lining may have the configuration of a water vapor permeableand waterproof sock. Such a sock is also referred to in the art as a“bootie”. A bootie comprises an upper lining surrounding the upper sideof a person's foot as well as an upper bottom on which the sole of aperson's foot rests. As such, the bootie is an independent liningstructurally separate from an upper material or an assembly insole ofthe footwear article. In the course of manufacturing the footwear, thebootie is inserted into the upper assembly such as to abut the innerside of the upper material and the upper side of an assembly insole. Thebootie may be fixed to the upper material and/or to the assembly insole,but otherwise is independent of the upper material and/or the assemblyinsole.

In some embodiments, the footwear assembly may have the configuration ofa water vapor permeable and waterproof upper lining to be attached to anupper bottom. Different from a bootie, the upper lining according tosuch configuration does not include an upper bottom, but only includesan upper lining surrounding the upper part of the foot. In the course ofmanufacturing the footwear, the upper lining is to be closed on itsbottom side by an upper bottom. The upper bottom may be waterproof, ifdesired water vapor permeable and waterproof. For example, the upperlining may attached to upper bottom by lasting using a lasting glue.Alternatively, upper lining may be attached to upper bottom by way of astrobel seam. Upper lining may attached to upper bottom directly, or viaan intermediate element, e.g. a sealing band or a netband. When anetband is used, a waterproof seal may be obtained by injection moldingof plastics material, e.g. during assembly of a sole to the upperassembly.

In particular embodiments of the footwear assembly the water vaporpermeable and waterproof functional layer may extend up to a height ofat least 20% of the height of the footwear assembly. In someembodiments, the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layermay extend up to a height between 20% of the height of the footwearassembly and 65% of the height of the footwear assembly (upper boundarynot included). Particularly, the water vapor permeable and waterprooffunctional layer to a height of at least 65% of the footwear assembly,more in particular 90% or even up to a height of at least 95% of thefootwear assembly. Such configuration is particularly helpful inembodiments where the collar layer is not waterproof or where the collarlayer is waterproof, but not breathable. In case of a non-waterproofcollar layer, the higher the water vapor permeable and waterprooffunctional layer extends, the better will be waterproofness of thefootwear article. In case of a waterproof, but non-breathable collarlayer, the higher the water vapor permeable and waterproof functionallayer extends, the better will be the water vapor permeability of thefootwear article.

In particular embodiments of the footwear assembly the collar layer maycomprise elastic extensions on its side opposite the water vaporpermeable functional layer. These extensions may be configured to befolded over and attached to an upper material layer, such as to form anelastic backing layer covering openable portions, tongue portions and/orgusset portions of the upper material layer. In such configurations, thecollar layer may be folded over at the periphery of the instep openingsuch that the extensions extend from the instep opening downwards. Thedownwards extending portions might be attached to the inner side of theupper material layer and thereby allow to cover any openable portions inthe upper material layer by an elastic layer on the inner side. This isa particularly elegant design to cover openings or slits in the uppermaterial, which would otherwise have to be covered by some flexiblematerial. In one example gusset portions required laterally from atongue in conventional footwear designs might be replaced completely bysuch folded over extensions of the elastic collar layer. The sameapplies to any portions in the upper material layer where zippers areprovided. The slits in the upper material being created when the zipperis opened might be easily backed by the elastic material of the foldedover extensions of the collar layer.

Any of the embodiments of a footwear assembly described above may beused in the manufacturing of an upper assembly of footwear. The upperassembly may comprise an upper material layer surrounding at least anupper portion of a foot, and the footwear assembly according to any ofthe previous embodiments. The footwear assembly as described above mayform an upper lining arranged on an inner side of the upper materiallayer, the upper lining being independent of the upper material to suchextent that the upper lining at least in the region of the water vaporpermeable and waterproof functional layer and the elastic collar is ableto adapt its shape independently of the upper material layer. Hence, theupper material can be designed such as to only loosely fit to the foot,particularly in the regions adjacent to the instep opening and theregions around the ankle of the foot, without compromising comfort orstability of the foot in use. This allows a simple donning or doffing ofthe footwear, even in case upper materials with poor elasticity areused, without compromising stability and comfort to the person wearingthe footwear.

The upper material layer and/or the upper lining layer may be configuredto be attached to an upper bottom layer in such a way as to form awaterproof and water vapor permeable upper assembly.

In embodiments, the upper material layer may comprise at least oneopenable portion, tongue portion and/or gusset portion, and the collarlayer of the upper lining layer may comprises elastic extensions on itsside opposite the water vapor permeable functional layer. The extensionsmay be folded over and may be attached to the upper material layer on aninner side thereof. Thereby, the extensions of the collar layer may forman elastic backing layer covering the at least one openable portion,tongue portions and/or gusset portions of the upper material layer, asdescribed in detail above.

The invention will be described in more detail in the following by wayof exemplary embodiments which are sown in the figures. These show:

FIG. 1 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a footwearassembly having the configuration of a water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer bootie for a low cut shoe;

FIG. 2 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a footwearassembly having the configuration of a water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer bootie for a mid cut shoe;

FIG. 3 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a footwearassembly having the configuration of a water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer bootie for a high cut shoe;

FIG. 4 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a footwearassembly having the configuration of a water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer bootie for a mid cut shoe with an uppermaterial layer attached to the footwear assembly;

FIG. 5 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of the footwearassembly of FIG. 4 in a view from the from tip of the footwear; and

FIG. 6 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a mid cutfootwear comprising the footwear assembly of FIGS. 4 and 5, in acompleted state.

FIGS. 1 to 3 show highly simplified and schematic views of a footwearassembly 10 having the configuration of a water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer bootie. FIG. 1 shows a bootie for a low cutshoe. FIG. 2 shows a bootie for a mid cut shoe, and FIG. 3 shows abootie for a high cut shoe. The following considerations relate to allembodiments shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, unless explicit reference is taken toonly one of the Figs.

The footwear assembly 10 (bootie) comprises a water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer laminate 12, as described above, and acollar layer 14. The collar layer 14 is attached to the functional layerlaminate 12 such as to form an upper portion of the footwear assembly 10and surrounding an instep opening 8. The collar layer 14 is attached tothe water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer laminate 12 byan elastic seam 18. The collar layer 14 is made from an elastic fabrichaving elasticity in two dimensions, namely the warp and weft directionsof the fabric. The collar layer 14 is made from a fabric having requiredelastic characteristics to allow easy donning and doffing, particularlyapplying only moderate forces and not requiring to open any laces orzippers. However, the collar layer 14 is not waterproof.

The water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer 12 is alaminate formed by a water vapor permeable and waterproof membrane and atextile layer attached to the water vapor permeable and waterproofmembrane. The water vapor permeable and waterproof functional membranemay be made from expanded PTFE which is attached to a supporting textilelayer according to the teaching of U.S. Pat. No. 5,804,011. Themicroporous polytetrafluoroethylene membrane is a membrane of expandedpolytetrafluoroethylene as taught in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,953,566 and4,187,390, to Gore. The water vapor permeable and waterproof functionallayer may be composed of a polyurethane coated microporous expandedpolytetrafluoroethylene membrane made substantially according to theteachings of U.S. Pat. No. 4,194,041 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,942,214assigned to W.L. Gore and Associates, Inc, in Elkton, Md. The membranemay also be made of polyurethane (PU), polyether ester (PES),polyethylene or combinations of these materials.

Water Vapor Permeability (WVP) as used herein concerning the functionallayer may be tested as defined in EN ISO 15496 (2004), also known as the“Cup Test”. A 20×20 cm or Ø 100 mm sample of functional layer orfunctional layer laminate is placed onto a container containing waterand covered with a membrane. Then a cup containing potassium acetate andbeing covered by the same membrane is placed on the sample. Water vaporpasses through the functional layer into the cup, whose weight increaseis then determined. The functional layer is considered water vaporpermeable or breathable if the WVP is greater than or equal to 0.01g/(Pa*m²*h). If the required size of the sample cannot be obtained, asmaller sample may be used for the measurement using a smaller cupcontaining half the amount of potassium acetate specified in the Norm,i.e. 50 g instead of 100 g and mixed with 15.6 g of water. In case asmaller cup is used, the applied area in the calculation needs to beadjusted, accordingly.

A functional layer may be considered waterproof in case a 100 cm² sampleof the material under investigation is able to withstand a water ingresspressure of at least 0.05 bar. Particularly, the material may evenwithstand a water pressure of at least 1 bar. The method for carryingout this test is described in the ISO Standard No. 811 (1981) (EN 20811(1992)).The measurement is carried out by exposing a 100 cm² sample ofthe material under investigation to a rising water pressure. For thispurpose, distilled water having a temperature of 20±2° C. is used. Therise in the water pressure is 60±3 cm H₂O/min. The water ingresspressure of the sample under investigation is that pressure at whichwater passes through the opposite side of the sample underinvestigation. If a 100 cm² sample cannot be obtained, a smaller samplemay be used for the measurement. There is a linear correlation betweensample size and water ingress pressure, so that the water ingresspressure may be calculated for a 100 cm² sample.

The water vapor permeable and waterproof membrane is attached to atextile layer in such a way that the water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer 12 has the configuration of an elasticlaminate having at least one direction of elasticity, usually in themachine direction. In some configurations, the water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer may have elasticity in two directions, asshown in U.S. Pat. No. 5,804,011, for example. To impose elasticcharacteristics to the laminate, the textile layer may have an elastictextile configuration, e.g may be made as a knit having an elastic knitpattern (like a tricot, warp knit, or similar knit pattern). In suchcase the textile need not necessarily include elastic threads to providethe desired elastic characteristics. However, in a number ofconfigurations, it may be helpful if the textile layer comprises elasticfilaments, e.g. made from elasthane to further enhance the elasticity ofthe textile layer. In FIGS. 1 to 3, the main direction of elasticity ofthe water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer 12 isindicated by the arrow A. The main direction of elasticity of the watervapor permeable and waterproof functional layer 12 is directed in thedirection where the most elongation and flexibility is required whendonning or doffing a footwear article with the footwear assembly 12having the configuration of a bootie. Tests have shown that suchdirection of most elongation and flexibility is the direction from theheel to the toe of the bootie for all bootie configurations shown inFIGS. 1 to 3.

In all embodiments shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, the main direction ofelasticity of the functional layer laminate 12 and the main direction ofelasticity of the collar layer 14 are directed parallel to the directionA in which most flexibility and elongation is required for donning anddoffing. Also the elastic seam 18 connecting the functional layerlaminate 12 with the collar layer 14 is directed parallel to suchdirection A in which most flexibility and elongation is required fordonning and doffing. The elastic seam 18 has the configuration of a zigzag stitch which provided for elasticity irrespective of whether anelastic thread is used to carry out the stitches.

There is a difference between the low cut bootie 10 shown in FIG. 1, themid cut bootie 10 shown in FIG. 2, and the high cut bootie 10 shown inFIG. 3 with respect to the height where the most elongation andflexibility is required when donning or doffing. In the low cut bootie10 (see FIG. 1), the most flexibility is required at a heightsubstantially equal to the height of the instep opening 8, as the bootieonly extends up to a height slightly below the ankle of the foot androughly up to the height of the instep of the foot. Also for the mid cutbootie 10 shown in FIG. 2, the most flexibility for donning and doffingis required at a height roughly equal to the height of the instep of thefoot. However, in this configuration, the bootie extends up to a heightslightly above the ankle of the foot, and hence the height of maximumelongation and flexibility is at some distance below the height of theinstep opening 8. For the high cut bootie 10 shown in FIG. 3, the bootieextends up to a height well above the ankle of the foot. In thisconfiguration, it has turned out that the height of maximum elongationfor donning and doffing is only slightly above the ankle of the foot,and thus is substantially lower than the height of the instep opening 8.In all embodiments as shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, the functional layerlaminate 12 extends up to such a height that the elastic seam 18connecting the functional layer laminate 12 and the collar layer 14 isroughly in the same height as the height of maximum elongation whendonning or doffing a footwear including the respective bootie 10. Suchconfiguration allows to optimally use the elasticity provided by thecollar layer 14 to provide flexibility for donning and doffing, and fitthe foot in the region around the ankle, when the footwear is used. Itis however important in such configuration that the seam 18 providessufficient elasticity to avoid losing the additional elasticity providedby the collar layer 14.

Moreover, the configuration of the height of the elastic seam 18 asshown in FIGS. 1 to 3 allows the waterproof functional layer laminate 12to extend up to a height as far as possible, thereby ensuring maximumwaterproofness of the footwear. This even applies for the low cut bootieof FIG. 1, since in this configuration the functional layer laminate mayextend almost up the maximum height of the bootie (e.g. the functionallayer laminate may extend up to 90%, or even up to 95%, of the height ofthe bootie below the instep opening 8). For the mid cut bootie of FIG.2, the functional layer laminate may extend up to about 70% to 90%, inmost cases up to about 75 to 85%, of the height of the bootie 10 at theinstep opening 8. However, in absolute height this is still the sameheight, or even higher, than with the low cut bootie 10, in any case thefunctional layer laminate 12 always may extend up to a height roughlycomparable to the instep of the foot. With respect to the high cutbootie 10 shown in FIG. 3, in order to allow easy donning and doffing itis advisable to allow the collar layer 14 to extend at a substantialvertical portion below the instep opening 8, down to a height slightlyabove the ankle of the foot where the maximum elongation during donningand doffing will be required (see the constriction in the bootie crosssection visible in FIG. 3). Therefore, the functional layer laminatewill extend into much less height when expressed in relative terms withrespect to the height of the instep opening, roughly up to a height of60% to 80%, particularly up to a height of 65% to 75% of the height ofthe instep opening. However, such height is still well above the ankleand thus provides for sufficient waterproofness.

In the embodiments shown in the FIGS. 1 to 3 the footwear assembly 10forms an upper lining bootie to be attached to the inner side of anupper material 30 (see FIGS. 4-6) of an upper assembly. The upper liningbootie 10 has a sock shape configuration formed by two of the watervapor permeable and waterproof functional layers 12 and an upper bottomfunctional layer 22. As more clearly visible in FIG. 5 the water vaporpermeable and waterproof functional layer 12 forms one of two upper sideparts 12 of the bootie 10. Both upper side parts 12, 12 are connectedwith each other by a longitudinally extending seam 13 which is sealed bya seam tape (not shown). The upper bottom layer functional layer 22 isconnected to each of the two water vapor permeable and waterprooffunctional layers 12, 12 also by way of seams which are sealed byrespective seam tapes (not shown).

Also visible in FIGS. 1 and 2 is a tongue portion 16 formed by thecollar layer 14. The tongue portion 16 is also connected to the watervapor permeable and waterproof functional layer laminate 12 by way of anelastic seam 20. As more clearly shown in FIGS. 4 to 6, the tongueportion 16 comprises an extension portion 26 which is folded over at theinstep opening 8 such that the folded over section 26 may be connectedto the inner side of an upper material 30, and thus forms a water gussetportion (see particularly FIGS. 4 and 5). As the material of the collarlayer 14 is highly elastic, such water gusset portions 26 allow afoldfree fit of the tongue portion 26 to the foot at each time,including donning and doffing. Conventional water gussets, which wouldlead to folds, are completely superfluous. This increases comfort.

FIG. 4 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a mid cutfootwear assembly having the configuration of a water vapor permeableand waterproof functional layer bootie 10 for a mid cut shoe with anupper material layer 30 attached to the footwear assembly. FIG. 5 showsa highly simplified and schematic view of the footwear assembly of FIG.4 in a view from the toe portion of the footwear. FIG. 6 shows a highlysimplified and schematic view of the mid cut footwear comprising thefootwear assembly of FIGS. 4 and 5, in a completed state.

As can be seen in FIGS. 4 to 6, the upper material layer 30 is attachedto the footwear assembly 10 in the region of the instep opening 8. Thus,it is particularly helpful in case the collar layer 14 comprises elasticextensions 24, 26, 28 on its side opposite the water proof and watervapor permeable functional layer 12. These extensions 24, 26, 28 are beconfigured to be folded over and attached to the upper material layer 30on an inner side thereof. Thereby, the extensions 24, 26, 28 form abacking layer covering openable portions (like the zipper portion 32 ofthe upper material 30 visible in FIG. 6), tongue portions and/or watergusset portions of the upper material layer 30. In such configurations,the collar layer 14 may be folded over at the periphery of the instepopening 8 such that the extensions 24, 26, 28 extend from the instepopening 8 downwards. The extensions may be arranged between the uppermaterial and the footwear assembly. The downwards extending portions 24,26, 28 are attached to the inner side of the upper material layer 30 andthereby allow to cover any openable portions in the upper material layer30 by an elastic layer on the inner side. This is a particularly elegantdesign to cover openings or slits in the upper material 30, which wouldotherwise have to be covered by some flexible material. E.g. watergusset portions required laterally from a tongue in conventionalfootwear designs might be replaced completely by such folded overextensions 24, 26 of the elastic collar layer. The same applies to anyportions in the upper material layer where zippers 32 are provided. Theslits in the upper material being created when the zipper 32 is openedmight be easily backed by the elastic material of the folded overextensions 28 of the collar layer 14.

1. Footwear assembly for forming at least part of an upper assembly offootwear, the footwear assembly defining an instep opening andcomprising: a water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layerhaving a first elasticity, and a collar layer attached to the watervapor permeable and waterproof functional layer such as to define atleast part of the instep opening, the collar layer having a secondelasticity.
 2. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein thecollar layer has elastic properties in more than one direction.
 3. Thefootwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the second elasticity isequal to, or larger, than a predetermined threshold.
 4. The footwearassembly according to claim 1, wherein the second elasticity is equalto, or larger, than the first elasticity.
 5. The footwear assemblyaccording to claim 1, wherein the collar layer extends along at least30% of the instep opening, particularly along at least 60% of the instepopening, particularly along at least ⅔ of the instep opening.
 6. Thefootwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the collar layer isattached to the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer bymeans of an elastic seam.
 7. The footwear assembly according to claim 6,wherein the elastic seam is formed by a thread having a thirdelasticity.
 8. The footwear assembly according to claim 6, wherein theelastic seam is formed by a stitch pattern providing elasticcharacteristics.
 9. The footwear assembly according to claim 6, whereinthe elastic seam extends along at least 30% of the circumference of theinstep opening, particularly along at least 60% of the circumference ofthe instep opening, particularly along at least ⅔ of the circumferenceof the instep opening.
 10. The footwear assembly according to claim 1,wherein the first elasticity and the second elasticity are measured inthe same direction.
 11. The footwear assembly according to claim 1,wherein the first elasticity and the second elasticity are measured in adirection parallel to the horizontal direction.
 12. The footwearassembly according to claim 6, wherein the water vapor permeable andwaterproof functional layer and the collar layer are attached to eachother via a seam and the first elasticity and the second elasticity aremeasured in a direction parallel to the seam.
 13. The footwear assemblyaccording to claim 6, wherein a composite sample piece made of the watervapor permeable and waterproof functional layer and the collar layerattached to each other by a seam has a fourth elasticity, the fourthelasticity being equal to, or larger, than a predetermined threshold.14. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the water vaporpermeable and waterproof functional layer has the configuration of alaminate made up with a water vapor permeable and waterproof membraneand a textile layer attached to the water vapor permeable and waterproofmembrane.
 15. The footwear assembly according to claim 14, wherein thetextile layer has an elastic textile configuration.
 16. The footwearassembly according to claim 14, wherein the textile layer compriseselastic filaments.
 17. The footwear assembly according to claim 1,wherein the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layerincludes a water vapor permeable and waterproof film made of afluoropolymer, particularly ePTFE.
 18. The footwear assembly accordingto claim 1, wherein the collar layer is water vapor permeable, but notwaterproof.
 19. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, having theconfiguration of an upper lining.
 20. The footwear assembly according toclaim 1, having the configuration of a water vapor permeable andwaterproof sock.
 21. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, havingthe configuration of a water vapor permeable and waterproof upper liningattached to a waterproof upper bottom.
 22. The footwear assemblyaccording to claim 1, wherein the water vapor permeable and waterprooffunctional layer extends to a height of at least 20% of the height ofthe footwear assembly, particularly to a height of at least 65% of thefootwear assembly, particularly to a height of at least 95% of thefootwear assembly.
 23. The footwear assembly according to claim 1,wherein the collar layer comprises elastic extensions on its sideopposite the water vapor permeable functional layer, the extensionsbeing configured to be folded over and attached to an upper materiallayer, such as to form a backing layer covering openable portions,tongue portions and/or gusset portions of the upper material layer. 24.Upper assembly of footwear, the upper assembly comprising: an uppermaterial layer surrounding at least an upper portion of a foot, and afootwear assembly comprising a water vapor permeable and waterprooffunctional layer having a first elasticity, and a collar layer attachedto the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer such as todefine at least part of the instep opening, the collar layer having asecond elasticity, wherein the footwear assembly forms an upper liningarranged on an inner side of the upper material layer, the upper liningbeing independent of the upper material layer to such extent that theupper lining at least in the region of the first functional layer andthe elastic collar is able to adapt its shape independent of the uppermaterial layer.
 25. The upper assembly according to claim 24, whereinthe upper material layer and/or the upper lining is configured to beattached to an upper bottom layer in such a way as to form a waterproofand water vapor permeable upper assembly.
 26. The upper assemblyaccording claim 24, wherein the upper material layer comprises at leastone openable portion, tongue portion and/or gusset portion, and thecollar layer of the upper lining comprises elastic extensions on itsside opposite the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer,the extensions being folded over and attached to the upper materiallayer, such as to form a backing layer covering the at least oneopenable portion, tongue portions and/or gusset portions of the uppermaterial layer.